Customize your varnish! Ask us how you can add Woodwright solvents to your finish to slow it down, speed it up or even make it lay out better in cold weather. 1.800.322.8172
Frequently
Asked Questions
Get
Answers to Commonly Asked Questions Looking for answers about our products or about your issues pertaining
to your specific project? Its very possible that others have
asked us the same or similar question as your own. Check through
the following list of inquiries to find out.
Q: How much 35260 Catalyst do I add to my varnish? A: All Woodwright converions varnishes require 4 ounces of 35260 catalyst per gallon prior to spraying. Varnishes that require catalyst include; 9988 Apex, 9930 E7, 9934 Enduro Var, 9948 Armor Var Plus, 9999 Ultra Var, 9982 Apex Sealer, 9926 Easy-Sand Sealer, 9931 Enduro Seal, 9070 White Primer, 9075 Factory White Topcoat and 9090 White Hardwood Primer. Please see product label, tech data sheet and MSDS for further information.
Q:If I have applied stain to my project can I let it sit overnight before I apply my seal coat of varnish? A: We suggest always sealing the same day that you stain. Stain contains resins that will produce a film if left too long to dry. This film can be slick and may prevent proper adhesion for your varnish. If you have stained your project and waited until the next day to varnish you will most likely get wrinkling in your second coat. This happens because the first coat of varnish did not adhere to the wood due to the stain film. When the second coat begins to dry, it shrinks itself around the wood pulling off your seal coat.
Q: What temperature should my varnish be for optimum sprayability? A: 77 degrees Fahrenheit is the ideal temperature for any Woodwright varnish. If you are not able to reach this temperature, solvents may be used to manipulate varnish viscosity. In cold weather, add TH7100 FloSol. In temperatures above 95 degrees Fahrenheit, add a small amount of TH3700 Slow reducer. Please call to acquire exact additive amounts.
Q: I am a new finisher. How much varnish should be applied per coat? A: 5 wet mils per coat is ideal. Please refrain from applying more than 8 wet mils per coat. Mil gauges are available at no charge to Woodwright varnish users. Call for yours today! 1-800-322-8172
Q: How do I properly
set up my Pressure Pot and HVLP Gun? A: HVLP
stands for, High Pressure Low Volume, these specifics are taken
care of within the gun and does not dictate how your gauges should
be set.
Proper Set Up:
1. Atomizing Air 65—70 lbs. (gun)
2. Air Pressure 7—8 lbs. (material)
3. Open adjustment for fan and trigger pull all the way for maximum
material and trigger pull.
4. Spray a test shot on a scrap piece of wood or a piece of cardboard.
The pattern should be OVAL.
5. If the pattern is too big, lower it to the size you want it
to be. You will notice that the pattern will become a circle.
Now, adjust your trigger to make the pattern OVAL again and you’re
done! You have now successfully set up your Pressure Pot and
HVLP gun.
Q: Is it okay to spray
a Precatalyzed varnish over a Conversion varnish? A: In
most cases, NO. Conversion varnish tightens as it cures, much
more so than a precatalyzed varnish. If the conversion varnish
is not fully cured when the precat is sprayed on top, it can
actually tighten so much that it pops the precat right off. This
will usually look like lifting. The only time that it is okay
to put precat over conversion varnish is if it is fully cured.
Wait a minimum of 30 days. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO SAND JUST
BEFORE SPRAYING YOUR NEXT COAT TO ENSURE ADHESION. If this is
your situation, please contact your Woodwright rep for instruction.
Q: If I sand at the
end of the day, will it be okay to spray my last coat the next
day or over the weekend? A: NO.
Any varnish less than 3 weeks old is always in a “curing
state”. This means if you sand today, it will continue
to get harder and “heal” your sanding scuffs. This
will make the sealer coat too hard and too smooth for good adhesion
of your next coat. Remember: Catalyzed varnishes are chemically
resistant the NEXT DAY, so adhesion must be achieved by means
of sanding or “mechanical adhesion”, not by “chemically
burning in”. WHEN IN DOUBT, SAND IT OUT.
Q: Could you explain
what Woodwright TH7100 FloSol is? A: Woodwright
TH7100 FloSol is the new “PM Plus”. It is a special
blend of solvents to help with the flow of your Woodwright varnish.
As seen on page 1 (of the February 2007 Newsletter), it is recommended
for use in your final coat of varnish. Basically, FloSol helps
your varnish to dry evenly and lay flat, giving you that beautifully
unique “Woodwright Feel”. It is not necessary to
use FloSol with Woodwright varnish, but it works great in cold
or hot weather and even when having air-flow difficulties. Call
for further instruction.
Q: What guidelines
should I follow when staining hard woods, like maple and hickory? A: Maple
should be presanded with a heavy grit sandpaper like 100 or 120
grit. To eliminate the “blotchy” effect of stain,
make a pre-stain conditioner by taking 1 part precat to 20 parts
TH3000 Lacquer Thinner. Spray this first before staining. Hickory
will take stain well, but must be pre-sanded with 100 grit sandpaper
before staining. For best results your 1st coat, over stain,
should be 8800 Vinyl Sealer or 8820 Low Solids PreCat or low
solids catalyzed sealer (20% solids by volume or less) We suggest
using a low solids sealer on hickory or maple because it will
seal these types of wood best. Also, an important note: when
finishing hard woods like maple and hickory, even if you are
finishing it natural, with no stain, pre-sand with 100 to 120
grit sandpaper and seal with low solids sealer. This will promote
greater adhesion on dense woods. Final coat may be precatalyzed
or catalyzed varnish.
Q: What guidelines
should I follow when staining porous woods, like pine? A: Pre-sand
as usual. Seal wood with pre-stain conditioner. To make prestain
conditioner: Combine 1 part PreCat to 10 parts TH3000 Lacquer
Thinner. One thing to consider, when preconditioning wood, is
that the stain you are using may need to be slightly darker than
usual because the pre-stain conditioner will make your wood less
porous and it will not accept the stain as darkly. Please test
before applying to entire job.
